Incredible India Part 4

Day 4

We have been brought to Pahalgam today. A

 Town which located 97km or 2.5hrs drive from Srinagar. Its lush green meadows and pristine waters of Lidder rivers enough to attracts tourists to visit. In winter, everything looks white and even the water is almost frozen. So, again, i will repeat this place during spring or summer next time Insyaallah. 

Road to Pahalgam

What's unique on our day to Palhagam was, the Prime Minister of India paid a visit to Dal Lake. Hence, all shops closed, people spent their precious time at home and very few seen on the road or town except for the police and armies. Easy to move around since lesser cars but some roads are closed so we need to go for alternatives. 

Along the journey, I could see Saffron field, which widely planted here. For those who don't know what is Saffron, it is a kind of spices used in the cookings derived from the flowers. Other than that, it can help to sharpened your memories and prevent cancer to your digestion system. Very expensive and in Malaysia, you can get it around RM28k per kg. In Kashmir, some villages will sell it to you at very cheap price. Take it and pay. This also one of the method to contribute and help them.

The lonely road

Saffron Field

This toll will be operated soon in Kashmir. The only toll that we found here. 

The lonely city

Finally, welcome to Pahalgam

We, finally reached Palhagam. The backdrops mostly covered with white blanket of snows. Pretty cold with temperate of 2degrees or lesser. The view, not much different with Sonamarg. The driver brought us to the touts.

The villages in the background of mountains

Lidder River

The activities here

The touts briefed us the activities that are available in Pahalgam. They offered horse riding to Baisaran, Dabyan, Kashmir Valley (1 route), Phalgam Valley, Kanimarg and Tulan Lake. So many places here but since we had little money left and cold and getting tired, we decided to choose Baisaran, Dabyan and Kashmir Valley only for horse riding route. The cost for this route after bargaining is Rs1000 per person, 1.5hrs return journey. 

Locals walked around. Maybe some of them are touts or horse guiders. 

The horses. Not much tourists here during winter

We passed by Kashmir Valley and Dabyan before reaching Baisaran. Very stunning view here with the half frozen pines, the white hills and the snow clad mountain at the back. 

Riding a horse also a new experience to me. A bit ackward to get into the horse and when it comes to the hilly route, i really felt like to fell down from the horse! 

At Baisaran, you can see people hanging cloths on a piece of wood. At first, i thought they were drying the cloths hehe. But when i came closer, actually they provided Pehran rental for pictures. The price is Rs100 per sets. Really cheap and I really suggest you to take this. On top of that, they also selling pashmina with cheap prices. Since we already bought a lot of pieces days before and our money not much left, so we refused to buy (I felt guilty actually and hope that better rezeki will comes upon them).

Selections of Pehran for rental 

The man assisted me in wearing sets of Pehran. I really love this! 

Me in Pehran

Horse riding

After the riding, we went to the restaurant nearby to have lunch. Lets look what we have at the picture below. The price is around Rs400 per persons. 

Kabab Kanti and Plain Bread. Delicious and i love this too! 

Switches in the restaurant. Only in Kashmir

After the lunch, we heading back to Srinagar. The Prime Minister still in the town so, some roads are still closed. Unfortune things happened when the driver need to u turn the car upon the road closure and the car tyre hit the steels that the police put in the middle of the road. So, the tyre became flat. We stopped by at the road side to change the tyre. It tooks around 20mins and the temperature outside was very cold. We, then continued our journey to the boat house. We will overnight in the boat house tonight. Again, unlucky, the road to the houseboat is closed. The driver asked me to negotiate with the army to open the blocks for our car to go through. Herm, me like...i believed that i am a brave person 😜. So, i spoke to one of the army, telling him that we were tourists and would like to get into our houseboat. The army told me to come back half an hour later since the VIP is still meeting at the Lake. OK then. 

The driver brought me to their relatives house. We have a rest here, has some biscuits and do some shopping! Again! Yes, they sold variety of cloths with cheap prices and accepted credit card payment. I bought 2 kurties with a price of RM30 for my mum 😁. 

We supposed to ride Shikara the boat, after dropped off our stuffs at the houseboat. But, yeah, its getting dark and do you think riding Shikara at night will give a great and amazing view? Of course not! So, we keep on waiting at the house. Of course its not half an hour as per army said 😭😭😭. 

The heater. Unique. 

Biscuits and Kahwa Tea

Around 7pm, we managed to get into our houseboat. Its very dark outside. We took the Shikara ride since it was already included in the package. Just enjoyed the night even i believed i could not see anything. The rides took around 1 hour. We passed by the night markets, hundreds of boat houses and....i don't know what since it was really dark!

On our way back, an old man with his boat came closer to our boat selling saffron. I don't have any feeling to buy anything that time, with little money, frustration for Shikara ride and of course the tiredness made me felt like nothing. I didn't entertain the old man but my friend did bought some. After came back to Malaysia, i felt so guilty for not buying (even 1 box) and prayed that Allah will bless him with a good life forever.

Shikara Ride

We went back to the boathouse after the ride and had our dinner. The houseboat located in the middle of the Dal Lake and i could say the weather is really cold even you were in the blanket. The heater also was very traditional. Using the gasoline to heat it up, with the smokes, the fire burning from the heater..  Errr... Pray that everything went alright. Refer to video below:

The host heat up the heater

The house boats

Its not our luck to enjoy the stunning view of Shikara ride at Dal Lake. Until next time. 

We slept early to catch the morning flight to Delhi the next morning! 

To be continued. ... 

Incredible India Part 3

Day 3

Early morning after having our breakfast, we continued our journey to the next popular tourists attractions, Sonamarg. Sonamarg located about 84km north east Srinagar and took about 3 hours journey by car. Sonamarg is situated in a valley at the bank of Nallah Sindh and nestled within the imposing Himalayan peaks.  It lies at an altitude of 2800 m above sea level. It is upwards of sixty miles long valley and deep rock-grit gorge to open grassy meadow land and village-dotted slopes. Since it was winter seasons, hence the thick snow covered the grassy land.

Ways to Sonamarg

The route passes through the picturesque town of Ganderbal, Kangan and Gund of the Sindh Valley, before reaching the resort. Spectacular views of the villages including houses's roof covered by snow was really amazing!

The shop houses in the background of mountains

Along the way, we could also saw the frozen rice field, the locals playing around and the snow-clad mountain (again!). Kashmiri also plant rice (they called it as rice not paddy) for their own consumptions since rice is their staple food. The rice normally cultivated at the side valleys and hilly areas. Rice only could be grown during the warmth month which are in the month of July to September with the average temperature of 20 degree. So, they need to reserve enough stocks for their cold seasons!

The frozen paddy field

Morning Market at one of the village. People selling fruits and groceries. We didn't stopped by anyway

A family waited for the bus. To town maybe? 

We stopped by the hilly road to snap some pictures. I could see villages scattered everywhere in the valley, the mixture of house colours, the pines and the snow  contribute to the enthralling and  fascinating view of Sonamarg!

We saw a family standing at the side of the slippery and snowy road, waiting for the bus. We didn't ask where they were going but we asked permissions to  take their photos. I was attracted with their cloth, so I got the name after asking to the driver. The cloths that they wore, both male and females are called as Pheran. Pheran is a traditional wear for Kasmiri. During summer, they will wear the Pheran which is made of cotton whilst in winter, the Pheran is made from wool which make them warm enough to move around and perform routines.

Since the road is slippery and very narrow, we just stopped for few minutes, got into the car and continue the journey.

The enthralling valley view! 

Some more! 

The car stopped suddenly at the road side. I could see few Kashmiris with their ponies and horses. I just wonder why we stopped there. Basically, that's the destination that we should arrived. We need to ride a pony/horses there to proceed the journey to the river as the car won't reach there. Hehe. Actually we can walk down the road for 2km to reach the Sindh River 🤣🤣. After bargaining with the touts, we managed to get a horse ride for 1hour return for Rs1,000 per person. There was not other activities here except for pony/horse riding. If it is summer or spring, at least you can trek here. So, i can say, i want to comeback here for trekking only Insyaallah. 

What about lunch here? We didn't take since we still full with heavy breakfast this morning. No restaurant here but they have mini market if you need something light. 

During the hour of horses rode, we passed by the mosques, the villager's house, the pines, the mini markets and finally the entrance of the Sindh River. So now i understand why people called Kashmir as mini Switzerland! 

From my reading to the Internet source, the most popular attractions here is Thajiwas Glacier, but we didn't go there. I didn't ask since i only performed my research after came back from India.. Hehehehe.. It's ok. Till next visits. 

The boy and the pony 

This is Sonamarg! 

The locals shovelling the snows to clear the road

The mosque

Me, in the background of Sindh River, pines, snow clad mountain and the blue sky

Sindh River. This river is a major tributary of the Jehlum River and is 108 kilometres in lenght.

Gipsy's house. They will live here during summer and nomad to Srinagar during winter

The touts, horse guider and us

After spending almost 2 hours here, we made a move back to Srinagar.

We went to Dal Lake. The Dal Lake is located at Srinagar. Not clear but cloudy and gloomy weather. However, we still can see the shadow of the mountains reflected in the lake. I love this view!

Dal Lake

Nearby Dal Lake. Kids played around. So cute and i felt like to pinch their cheek

Next to Dal Lake, you can found Hazratbal Mosque, Dal Lake, Srinagar. Locals called it as Shrine rather than a Mosque. Per understanding from locals, the Shrine contains a relic, which believed by many Muslims of Kashmir to be a hair of the Islamic prophet, Muhammad. This relic displayed to the public on every Friday prayers.

Hazratbal Mosque

This is the shop outside the mosque. I just took the picture from outside. Not entered since not much money left hehe

We went back to our hotel thereafter to rest and have a dinner. The dinner served by the hotel. Tastes good and already included in our package with Lucky Flower. 

Hotel dinner looks like. Sorry for the upside down picture 😁

To be continued... 

Incredible India Part 2

Day 2

As early as 5am, we embarked our journey to the Delhi Airport to depart to Srinagar. Reached airport about 15minutes from the hotel, queuing up and we have been told by the staff at the counter that the flight might be cancelled due to the bad weather. However, nothing confirmed and we need to wait for the subsequent announcement at 6.30am. They told us, all flights to Srinagar has been cancelled since few days ago due to heavy snow.

No choice, but to sit down and wait for any updates. I had a light breakfast at the airport and yeah, continue to sit down at the waiting space while thinking of the back up plan should the flight being cancelled. Maybe we diverted to Jaipur or some other places or revisit those attractions that have been closed yesterday!

Waiting and keep waiting 😢

Around 7am, we heard announcement that the flight being delayed. For how long, not sure. So, at least we knew that the flight not being cancelled, but still, it can be anything which uncertain huhu. We went into the immigrations and continue to the gate for boarding. Arrived at the gate, we heard further announcements that the flight been rescheduled again, until 10.30am, hahah. I could see crowd of people waiting at the gate with patience.

We took off to Srinagar around 10.45am and reached about 12pm. Upon arrival, we need to complete tourist form which is available at the airport. The driver from Lucky Flower already awaited for us outside the airport since early morning. Yeah, what more we can do other than say sorry for waiting even it is not our fault! Since he reached so early, the car has been blocked by other cars and it took sometimes to get out from the parking area. What a day hahah!

Finally, arrived at Srinagar Airport. 

We later, proceeded our journey to Gulmarg. Let see what we can do in the next half day. The journey to Gulmarg took around 1hr 45mins. I took pictures along the road. Very little development I could see in Srinagar. Very humble lifestyle and very peace from my eyes. I could see also the soldiers are everywhere, like every 100m. I would like to snap their photo but their sniper made me scarred hehe.

On our way to Gulmarg

View along the roads

What a cool view! 

Srinagar is the largest city in the Indian State Jammu & Kashmor (J&K). The population is dominated by 95% Muslims. Kashmir is known with the conflicts primarily between India and Pakistan over the Kashmir region. The conflict started after the partition of India in 1947 as a dispute over the former princely state of Jammu and Kashmir and escalated into three wars between India and Pakistan and several other armed skirmishes. Today, for Kashmiri, they are still fighting to be independent country from India. They believed that they could survive with the tourism industry as a main source of income since they are so lucky living in such state with awesome and amazing geographical area, the mountains, the rivers which are enough to attracts tourists (especially Malaysian) 😁.
After almost two hours on the road, the driver stopped the car. We rent boots for Rs150. Actually i wore boots on my own, but since they really persuaded us to rent their boots, so we just took it and pay. We, later changed our vehicle. We need to rode on the vehicle with chain since we will go up to the Gulmarg Mountain.
Gulmarg is originally called as ‘Gaurimarg’ by the shepherds, which later changed as Gulmarg in the 16th century by Sultan Yusuf Shah, who was inspired by the sight of its grassy slopes emblazoned with wild flowers.

Welcome to the Gulmarg

En route to the top of mountan

Snowy road. Its white! 

Our journey 

After 20mins journey throughout the thick forest and snow-clad mountain, we reached the ski resort. Few locals already awaited for us with their sledge. They told us that they will take us to the Gondola. We rode a sledge. The first time ever experience and even i never played daun upih when i was a kid. Look likes simple but balancing your body with the sledge while moving also important. The old man that pulled my sledge asked for the tips, looks like they are very dependent on tourism to survived so, we agreed to give them some. 😔. 

Me on the sledge

We took Gondola for Rs750 to Phase 1 - Kungdoor. The gondola ended up at Kongdori Mountains' peak ~ Phase 2. Since we reached late, we didn't go to the Phase 2. I could not describe how immensely beautiful the scenery here!

The Gondola ride

The Shepherd's house. They will move to Srinagar during winter

Finally we reached here! 

Not so many people at Phase 1. They skiing, snow cycling, snowboarding and not forget rode the snow mobile. I choosed to skii. The price is Rs1500 including the boots, poles, and skii lessons. Even it was not a proper skii resort, meaning no place to rent proper suits, google or gloves, they provided basic needs which are skii boots and poles. At first, i felt very uncomfortable  but since the slope is simple, so i think that's enough because we just wanna have a fun. I skiing for about an hour only. Feeling better than Seoul last time. I didnt fall down this time hehe.... 

Skiing again! 

Bhal Puri ~ one of the traditional food in Kashmir for Rs50. I like the tastes! 

Here it is. Simple but the tastes suit me! 

They pulled me down after the skiing. 

After the skiing, we took a break and had a saffron tea at the stall nearby. Actually it took us 10mins walking to the stall. 

The tea.... 

Later, we tried cycle snow. The price is Rs1500 per ride. Erm.. I couldn't imagine how the ride looks like. The route is 7km long. Meaning, you need to ride from Phase 1, down to the hill until Gondola Station. The cycles looks like a piece of metal with a seater, no brake, no pedal but you need to use your leg as your brakes.

So, i started to cycle. Hahahaha.. Its very, very fast, you really need to hold the handle strongly otherwise you will fall down. The most dangerous part is when it comes to the steeper slope, you really need to control your legs to brake or slow down the cycle. And as the first timer, i fell down from the cycle, rolling myself down the hill for few meters after 5km riding. I cannot control my leg to brake the cycle while it glides down the hill. My face became frozen for minutes. I felt blur and tried to wake up. The guide stopped nearby me and asked me.. 'Are you ok?' i answered 'My sights blur'.. He picked up my stuffs which dropped everywhere gegegegege. And the saddest part was, my spectacles broke. Huwaaaa..how could i saw to cycle. It looks everything is white without recognising which area is slope or not. Since i didn't want to fall again, i asked the guide to cycle with me (i don't really dare if is not an emergency case, gulp, uwek!) to reach the end point. Why i didn't asked help from my travel mates? Because they also felt down but luckily non of them wearing spectacles. Its important to have and wear safety helmet while cycling same as when you ride normal bicycle!

Before i felt down

Its getting dark. I, finally reached the end point. The sledgers already awaiting for us, to bring us around the Gulmarg resorts. I cannot remember the name of each point since i still ting tong after the fell down. After half an hour sledging, we pay the tips and sledging price to them and waiting for our vehicle to fetch us. 

We returned our boots and continue our journey back to Srinagar. On the way back, the driver took us to this shop. So, i shopped again, the pashminas for my family. Its quite cheap. Around RM20 per piece and very unique and beautiful.

I asked the driver to get me a glue. Strong glue which can be used to joint up my specs. Before reaching our hotel, he stopped by the mini market in Srinagar to get me a glue. So nice the people here. 

We checked in to the hotel, have a dinner and have a rest. Tomorrow we are going to Sonamarg. I could feel the backpain now. Sigh!

The handsome guy selling the pashmina

The broken spectacles 

The Rs10 glue used to joint the broken part

To be continued....